Apparel Online Bangladesh Magazine Magazine March 2018 | Page 48

THE LATEST NEWS HAVE YOUR SAY For the latest news on apparel and textile, make sure that you visit https://apparelresources.com/top-news/ Write to Apparel Resources, B-32, South Extension-1, New Delhi (110049), India or email: [email protected] Automation in Sewing Room – VII Bottom Rib Attach Operation in Sweatshirt Manufacturing Automats have paved way for improving machine productivity and manpower utilization, especially for bulk manufactured standard garments like polo T-shirts and sweatshirts. This has become even more important in the era of rising manpower cost, which has compelled manufacturers to explore opportunities for improving manpower and machine utilization. In such circumstances, use of automats has brought significant improvement in productivity and quality by reducing operator dependency through job deskilling. In this article, Team StitchWorld analyses the impact of use of automats in bottom rib attach operation for a knitted sweatshirt and how it works for the industry’s benefit. Conventional method for bottom rib attach operation The conventional bottom rib attach operation is completely manual where the operator performs all the tasks like band and body panel handling, positioning, sewing and disposing. This necessitates use of skilled manpower, thereby increasing human dependency and chances of human induced errors. The observed average cycle time for bottom rib attach operation on conventional machines is indicated in Exhibit 1.1. Technology behind automatic bottom band attaching operation Pegasus and Atlanta Attachment Company are prominent brands in the market, offering automatic bottom rib attach workstations. Pegasus model EXT5104/433-4/ KS/FR151 is a semi-automatic workstation which assists an operator in guiding and manipulating the tubular panel during the sewing cycle. Operations of band/body panel loading, withdrawal and stacking are manually performed by the operator. Model 1278-6 from Atlanta Attachment Company is an automatic integrated workstation, where operator’s task is limited from loading of panel to the holding of clamps. The machine performs material positioning, sewing and stacking operation on its own. Pegasus – Variable Top Feed Cylinder Bed Overedger: Model EXT5104/433-4/FR151 Even though the automats are more suitable for the bulk manufactured products that offer longer runs for smaller orders, these machines can be utilized as external tasks by designing the line plans accordingly. Model EXT5104/433-4/FR151 from Pegasus is a semi-automatic cylinder bed 3-thread overedger equipped with variable top feed mechanism. The machine can handle light-to-medium-to heavy- weight fabrics. The differential feed ratio can be adjusted via lever that can be adjusted intermittently during sewing. The machine has a fully automatic lubrication system. The FR in the model number indicates that the machine is equipped with fabric tensioner device which holds the fabric and elastic during sewing cycle of tubular garments. The operator’s task is restricted to folding the 48 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MARCH 2018 | www.apparelresources.com bottom band and loading the band and tubular garment panel to the tensioner device. The device expands and assists the operator in manipulating the fabric tube during the sewing cycle, thereby deskilling the job and reducing skilled operator’s dependency. Withdrawal of stitched garment from the tensioning device and stacking is performed manually by the operator. Productivity of the machine is 267 pieces per hour or 2,133 pieces per shift of 8 hours (refer Exhibit 1.1). Atlanta Attachment Company – Automatic Rib Knit Band Setting Station: Model 1278-6 Model 1278-6 from Atlanta Attachment Company is an automatic workstation for sewing circular bottom rib on sweatshirts. This unit incorporates a cylinder arm overlock sewing head with vacuum thread trimmer giving a precise cut. The machine utilizes sewing heads from Pegasus, Juki or Union Special. The workstation has electronic controls with a dual electronic active edge guiding