Apparel Online Bangladesh Magazine June Issue 2018 | Page 42

BANGLADESH CANVAS Is Bangladesh losing out its cheap apparel sourcing destination tag…? • International rights group drums for Taka 16,000 minimum wage B angladesh remains a lucrative HOTSPOT for international apparel retailers and brands to source cheap apparel items, despite struggling exports, a new Global Sourcing Survey – 2018, by Asiainspection (AI), says. “Outside of China, India and Bangladesh are increasingly given preferences for textile sourcing, being lower-cost destinations,” says the survey conducted by the institution in December 2017. Asiainspection is a quality control and compliance provider among global companies which claims it interviewed top officials of over 250 companies worldwide to produce the latest report. The report says 88 per cent of the respondents preferred China as the major choice for sourcing apparel items while 16 per cent said they would prefer Bangladesh. Vietnam, on the other hand, stands as the next popular sourcing spot after China, securing 43 per cent of preference opinions, followed by India at 37 per cent. Among other popular geographical sourcing destinations mentioned in the report were Europe, North America, Turkey, Indonesia, Latin America, Middle East and Australia. The report says that cost of manufacturing and raw materials were a priority issue for sourcing apparel items in 2017 and predicted that the trend will continue in 2018 as well. industry, it said it wrote to more than 20 of the largest brands sourcing from Bangladesh, requesting them to support the garment workers’ demands regarding minimum wage. Notably, Bangladesh is the third-largest apparel manufacturing destination, next to China and Vietnam, with over 6 per cent of global market share. The apparel makers think they have the chance to increase the share and turn the nearly US $ 30 billion industry to US $ 50 billion by 2021. The minimum wage has not been revised since 2013 and is one of the lowest in the global garment industry, said Clean Clothes Campaign, adding that it has also urged the brands to call on the Government of Bangladesh, to immediately end the harassment of workers and labour activists over this demand. Importantly, Bangladesh’s minimum wage is the lowest in the world, standing at approximately US $ 65 now. However, it is expected to rise within a few months as a new salary structure is being formulated. Nevertheless, it is still less than China (US $ 185 approx.) and Vietnam (US $ 170 approx.). Meanwhile, international rights group Clean Clothes Campaign has written to apparel retailers and brands, calling out to support the minimum wage demand of BDT 16,000 for Bangladesh’s 3.6 million workers in the readymade garment business. According to a press release of the global rights body for the apparel The retailers which received the request are: H&M, GAP, Walmart, Tesco, Inditex, C&A, VF Corporation, Levi’s, Marks & Spencer, Primark, Next, Takko, Aldi, Lidl, American Eagle, Hugo Boss, Esprit, El Corte Ingles, Sainsburys, HBC, A&F, Kik, Carrefour, Li & Fung and Benetton. Also, Clean Clothes Campaign has urged the retailers and brands to make a long-term commitment to continue sourcing from Bangladesh after the wage increase, agree to increase the FOB price to allow for the wage increase to be met in practice, express concerns at the ongoing repression and harassment of trade unions leaders, and state clearly that these brands support the genuine engagement in the negotiation. The rights group also repeatedly stated that labour unions faced repeated threats to freedom and extreme pressure, including arrests, since December 2016, following the voicing of demands for BDT 16,000 minimum wage for Bangladesh’s apparel industry. It is necessary to note that Bangladesh’s apparel makers have termed the demand of BDT 16,000 unrealistic, saying the commission will set the new standard of minimum wage in a few months and will formulate a pay structure according to the capacity of the manufacturers and need of the workers. 42 Apparel Online Bangladesh | JUNE 2018 | www.apparelresources.com