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The Woes of Ethical Sourcing !
Industry experts debate the whys and hows …
Apparel business has undergone a paradigm shift lately , be it for the manufacturers or the brands and retailers ! If commercial success in the last 10-15 years hinged on lead time , price-competitiveness and quality , today human rights issues and environmental requirements have added new dimensions to the very business approach itself . These in some way have not only become the binding criteria for selecting the business partners , but are also the most crucial aspects for addressing the demands of those who matter the most — that is the end-users , so much so that social sustainability and ethical sourcing have become the integral part of one ’ s business strategy and growth plan .
Bangladesh , the second largest exporter of apparels globally has not only made significant headway in ethical compliance but also has reportedly outperformed China and India in ethical compliance standards . The first quarter report compiled by Hong Kong-headquartered quality control and compliance company AsiaInspection ( AI ) – that performs product inspections , supplier audit programmes , and laboratory testing in Asia , Africa , Europe , North America , and South America – maintained , “ A look at the ethical performance by the region indicates little change for Chinese manufacturers , with average scores flat at 7.7 out of 10 . By contrast , South and south-east Asia are showing some much-needed improvement .” The report further added , “ Ethical scores in Bangladesh rose by an average of 15 per cent during the past 12 months .”
This is likely to reflect in the continuous pressure that Bangladesh is facing to improve the textile and apparel manufacturers by the industry groups formed after the 2013 Rana Plaza collapse . The finding , which is in line with the research report , ‘ Binding Power : The Sourcing Squeeze , Workers ’ Rights , and Building Safety in Bangladesh Since Rana Plaza ’ prepared by Mark Anner , Center Director of Penn State in March this year , unravels that the one area where gains for workers have been dramatic in the country is building safety while adding that the gains have been severely limited in regard to wages , overtime hours , and work intensity in part due to the sourcing practices of the brands and retailers that sit at the top of the global supply chains .
Despite the progresses made , many renowned brands operating in Bangladesh that Apparel Online spoke to , still seem very guarded on the issue of ethical sourcing , and spelled out what they are doing in terms of sustainability and ethical sourcing , only on the condition of anonymity .
“ The concept and approach of ethical sourcing is very diverse and evolving always . Earlier it was more about knowing one ’ s supply chain better ( workplace safety and security , the workers , their freedom of voice and rights , etc ). But today there is a greater focus on building a collaborative approach and engaging with other stakeholders to achieve these common goals ,” underlined Md . Jamil Ansar , Bangladesh Country Manager of Ethical
Trading Initiative ( ETI ), in a brief discussion with AO . The Bangladesh head of the leading alliance of companies , trade unions and NGOs that promotes respect for workers ’ rights around the globe raised a very pertinent point with regard to the all important question of price quotient . “ Here the main question is about the price . If the buyers fail to provide longer term business commitments and are constantly on the lookout for the next cheapest destination , for me , it is escaping from one ’ s responsibility …,” Jamil maintained . To prioritise ethical purchasing practice in its true essence where the focus is equally on the buyers as well as the suppliers , the global body in association with Better Buying has announced an 18-month partnership in Bangladesh to support and promote responsible buying practices within the garment industry supply chains .
Announced just over a week ahead of the fifth anniversary of the devastating Rana Plaza factory collapse , the initiative will invite Bangladeshi garment factories to anonymously evaluate their buyers using the Better Buying online rating platform , which gives buyers ’ ratings from suppliers on seven key aspects of purchasing : practice of
12 Apparel Online Bangladesh | JUNE 2018 | www . apparelresources . com