Apparel Online Bangladesh Magazine July' 17 | Página 14

COVER STORY SHIRT – A STORY OF GREAT POTENTIAL AND UNFULFILLED PROMISES… Once the mainstay of Bangladesh’s exports, shirt as a product category is lagging behind others, and there are multiple reasons to it The second largest garment exporter globally, the contribution of shirts in shaping the destiny of the Bangladesh garment industry is beyond question. Starting its journey as an apparel export hub in 1980s with quality formal shirts, shirt as a product category has been a key growth driver for the Bangladesh apparel industry over the years, complemented aptly by knits and bottoms (non-denim and denim) at later stages that helped the country cement its position as the preferred sourcing destination for the global buyers. With increased efficiency and expertise, the shirt manufacturers have started catering to all the major brands and retailers globally including names such as H&M, US retail giant Walmart, British retailer Primark, Germany’s posh brands Hugo Boss and Olymp (formal shirts), and many, many more. I n the global shirt market (as per data from Statista, one of the biggest data management company in US and EU), which stood at US $ 51 billion with total consumption of 2.5 billion pieces in 2016 and is expected to reach US $ 58.5 billion (in terms of value) and 2.83 billion pieces (in terms of volume) by 2020, Bangladesh’s role – which contributed around 10 per cent to the total global shirt import in 2016, is expected to play a pivotal part in shaping the global landscape as far as shirts are concerned. But despite this positive projection, shirt as a product category has somehow failed to keep pace with the growth of other products. “Of late we are getting more demand for sweaters, jackets, denim and other products which found base in Bangladesh after shirts. This is not to say that there is no demand for shirts, but the increase is only marginal, while for other products, the growth is very significant,” says Khondoker Mahibur Rahman, Managing Director, Stanley Fashion B.D., a buying office that sources shirts in 100% cotton, cotton polyester blends, PV, tencel, modal blends, with fabric mainly coming from China. Rahman’s statement is not a one-off case and there are facts to substantiate his claim. Data records from BGMEA show that in 1996-97, the export earnings 14 Apparel Online Bangladesh | JULY 2017 | www.apparelresources.com from shirts was US $ 759.57 million, while for trousers, jackets, T-shirts and sweaters, the value of exports were US $ 230.98 million, US $ 230.98 million, US $ 391.21 million and US $ 196.6 million, respectively. Fast forward to 2015-16, in terms of value (export), shirt stood at US $ 2,317.09 million while trousers, jackets, T-shirts and sweaters registered drastic growth to touch US $ 6,319.00 million, US $ 3,774.08 million, US $ 6,118.53 million and US $ 3,182.47 million, respectively. Today knits and bottoms account for a major share of the country’s apparel exports, a trend which is rather surprising considering that formal shirt was the mainstay of Bangladesh’s exports until the early 1990s. In fact, even as late as 2006, US retailers imported about 33 million pieces of shirts worth over US $ 2.4 billion and nearly one of every four shirts, was made in Bangladesh, but now that the US market is diverting to higher value- added and fashionable shirts, the country is trying to find better efficiency and product development skills in making casual shirts with value that comes from different fabrics and styling options. On the other hand, better technology is also moving in as some high-end brands from Europe are looking at sourcing formal shirts, which is another challenge. Few years ago, Hugo Boss started