Apparel Online Bangladesh Magazine February Issue 2019 | Page 50

HAVE YOUR SAY BREAKING NEWS Tell us your news by emailing at [email protected] To read the latest sustainability news, go to https://apparelresources.com/business-news/sustainability/  Table 2: Operation breakdown and SMV comparison SW Binran (Juki) Export 12 Min Shirt Ops SMV Ops SMV Ops SMV Ops SMV Ops SMV Front section 7 4.4 11 4.01 6 1.85 9 4.16 6 1.47 Back section 3 1.5 2 0.63 6 1.77 4 2.28 2 0.5 Sleeve section 4 2.98 5 2.14 4 1.82 6 1.77 3 1.33 Collar section 12 3.68 10 3.43 17 3.7 15 4.47 11 1.75 6 2.65 7 3.48 8 2.57 9 3.6 6 0.93 Assembly 10 12.79 8 4.84 12 7.41 10 9.18 9 3.43 Finishing - - - - - - - - 4 2.65 42 28 43 18.53 53 19.12 53 25.46 41 12.06 Cuff section Shirt sewing can be traditionally broken down into six sections: front, back, sleeve, collar, cuff and assembly. While some manufacturers incorporate all sections in one sewing line, others maintain separate sections as separate sewing lines. Domestic Table 3: Mock Pitch Time comparison SW Domestic Binran Export Ops SMV Mock Pitch Time Ops SMV Mock Pitch Time Ops SMV Mock Pitch Time Ops SMV Mock Pitch Time Large part section 14 8.88 0.63 18 6.78 0.38 16 5.44 0.34 19 8.21 0.43 Small part section 18 6.33 0.35 17 6.91 0.41 25 6.27 0.25 24 8.07 0.34 Assembly section 10 12.79 1.28 8 4.84 0.61 12 7.41 0.62 10 9.18 0.92 Complete Shirt 42 28 0.67 43 18.53 0.43 53 19.12 0.36 53 25.46 0.48 exclusive. The SMV varies from 18.53 to 28.00 minutes (exception being the 12-minute shirt which includes final press & finish). The collar & cuff section together account for maximum number of operations (from 39 per cent to 47 per cent) from 17 minimum (domestic) to 24 maximum (Binran). It is interesting to note that there is no consistent pattern of operation breakdown and SMV thereof. The assembly section SMV is the lowest in case of ‘domestic’ (i.e. 26 per cent), while the assembly section of StitchWorld is the highest at 46 per cent. The SMV is almost equally distributed (31 per cent – 36 per cent approximately) between small part, large part, and assembly section in case of export shirt. The organisations that wish to install overhead material handling system (OMHS) in shirt-sewing plant will ideally use it for assembly section only; that is less than one fourth of the total sewing operations. Although not advisable, some of the companies do install overhead material handling system in large part section to bring total number of operations under OMHS to near 50 per cent. True pitch time is total SMV divided by number of operators available to do the job. The number of operators 50 Apparel Online Bangladesh | FEBRUARY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com available may be more or less than total number of operations, depending upon the target to achieve. True pitch is calculated for operator allocation and balancing the line. Mock pitch time is calculated by dividing SMV by total number of operations. Mock pitch time gives an idea about variability of operation breakdown of any garment. If we look at the sectionalised SAM and respective ‘Mock Pitch Time’ of four different shirts (Table 3), it is evident why most of the large shirt manufacturing plants work on sectionalised line system. The mock pitch time of large part section for StitchWorld shirt is almost double