Apparel Online Bangladesh Magazine February Issue 2019 | Page 50
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Table 2: Operation breakdown and SMV comparison
SW
Binran (Juki)
Export
12 Min Shirt
Ops SMV Ops SMV Ops SMV Ops SMV Ops SMV
Front section 7 4.4 11 4.01 6 1.85 9 4.16 6 1.47
Back section 3 1.5 2 0.63 6 1.77 4 2.28 2 0.5
Sleeve section 4 2.98 5 2.14 4 1.82 6 1.77 3 1.33
Collar section 12 3.68 10 3.43 17 3.7 15 4.47 11 1.75
6 2.65 7 3.48 8 2.57 9 3.6 6 0.93
Assembly 10 12.79 8 4.84 12 7.41 10 9.18 9 3.43
Finishing - - - - - - - - 4 2.65
42 28 43 18.53 53 19.12 53 25.46 41 12.06
Cuff section
Shirt sewing can
be traditionally
broken down
into six
sections: front,
back, sleeve,
collar, cuff
and assembly.
While some
manufacturers
incorporate all
sections in one
sewing line,
others maintain
separate
sections as
separate sewing
lines.
Domestic
Table 3: Mock Pitch Time comparison
SW
Domestic
Binran
Export
Ops SMV Mock
Pitch
Time Ops SMV Mock
Pitch
Time Ops SMV Mock
Pitch
Time Ops SMV Mock
Pitch
Time
Large part
section 14 8.88 0.63 18 6.78 0.38 16 5.44 0.34 19 8.21 0.43
Small part
section 18 6.33 0.35 17 6.91 0.41 25 6.27 0.25 24 8.07 0.34
Assembly
section 10 12.79 1.28 8 4.84 0.61 12 7.41 0.62 10 9.18 0.92
Complete
Shirt 42 28 0.67 43 18.53 0.43 53 19.12 0.36 53 25.46 0.48
exclusive. The SMV varies from 18.53
to 28.00 minutes (exception being the
12-minute shirt which includes final
press & finish).
The collar & cuff section together
account for maximum number
of operations (from 39 per cent
to 47 per cent) from 17 minimum
(domestic) to 24 maximum (Binran).
It is interesting to note that there is
no consistent pattern of operation
breakdown and SMV thereof. The
assembly section SMV is the lowest
in case of ‘domestic’ (i.e. 26 per
cent), while the assembly section
of StitchWorld is the highest at 46
per cent. The SMV is almost equally
distributed (31 per cent – 36 per
cent approximately) between small
part, large part, and assembly
section in case of export shirt. The
organisations that wish to install
overhead material handling system
(OMHS) in shirt-sewing plant will
ideally use it for assembly section
only; that is less than one fourth
of the total sewing operations.
Although not advisable, some of
the companies do install overhead
material handling system in large
part section to bring total number of
operations under OMHS to near 50
per cent.
True pitch time is total SMV divided
by number of operators available to
do the job. The number of operators
50 Apparel Online Bangladesh | FEBRUARY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com
available may be more or less
than total number of operations,
depending upon the target to achieve.
True pitch is calculated for operator
allocation and balancing the line.
Mock pitch time is calculated by
dividing SMV by total number of
operations. Mock pitch time gives an
idea about variability of operation
breakdown of any garment. If we
look at the sectionalised SAM and
respective ‘Mock Pitch Time’ of
four different shirts (Table 3), it
is evident why most of the large
shirt manufacturing plants work on
sectionalised line system. The mock
pitch time of large part section for
StitchWorld shirt is almost double