Apparel Online Bangladesh Magazine April Issue 2019 | Page 55

Finishing
is preferred
method of
removing
crease in
a garment
where fabric
texture is
important
aesthetically create different look.
When shirts are finished using form
finisher or tunnel finisher, no creases
are formed in any place in a shirt.
Heavyweight irons impart better
crease
WRONG
Probably the greatest myth in
garment manufacturing process,
and the influence is so strong among
workers that some brands purposely
increase weight of irons to satisfy
the workers’ mental need. To flatten
a fabric against two flat surfaces
may require at most 500 grams for
the stiffest fabric possible. It is the
use of steam, time and temperature
in combination that does the trick.
It is important to remember that one
parameter can’t be compensated
by another; for example less
temperature cannot be compensated
by more weight or vice versa. The
workers background (where they
have used no-steam heat induced
irons for years) create a mental block
in assuming that heavy weight irons
create better result in removing
crease.
Ironing is easiest operation and
does not require any training
WRONG
Probably, it is the trickiest operation
to learn and can be compared
with learning driving. Industrial
iron table has vacuum and plays
important role. The synchronised
use of vacuum, steam and moving
same effect as pressing or ironing
using damp cloth or sponge. In
addition, the padded grid plate helps
to reduce impressions.
Vacuum is not important on
pressing machines because they
squeeze in the crease
WRONG
In any pressing operation vacuum is
the key device to “set the garment.”
It is more critical on a press as you
have a large area that was steamed
and the moisture has to be removed
quickly to ensure the proper finish.
If a garment has moisture then you
have a wavy or rippled look.
the iron is the key for efficient
and economical ironing. Ideally
vacuum and steam should not
be applied together, the correct
sequence is vacuum for laying the
garment – steaming the garment
(while the vacuum is off) – ironing
the garment (while the vacuum is
on) – keep vacuum on (for removing
the residual steam) – switch off the
vacuum – take the garment off.
Without proper training, the
operator tends to keep running the
vacuum while steaming, this waste
of steam leads to higher energy
consumption.
Padding and cover cloth on a
pressing machine or vacuum table
does not matter
WRONG
Cover cloth and padding is most
important as they determine
what amount of vacuum will pass
through the garment, thus setting
the garment. If a pad gets hard and
brittle, it does not have the airflow.
If the cover is full of sizing that has
been transferred from garments
over time then again it will not dry
the garment properly and run the
risk of burning out a vacuum motor.
Grid plates on presses reduce
shine and impressions
RIGHT
Today, there are grid plates that
have a thin layer of padding which
acts as a wick and holds some
moisture. It is like duplicating the
American & Efird (Bangladesh) Ltd.
The Glass House (Level 4), Plot 38, Gulshan Avenue, Gulshan 1, Dhaka 1212, Tel: [phone]
www.amefird.com
www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh
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