Apparel Online Bangladesh Magazine April Issue 2019 | Page 53

Figure 4: Weft wise stripe matching in collar not done
Figure 5: Weft wise stripe matching in cuff not done
Figure 6: Check matching at sleeve placket
Figure 8: Correct side seam position when the shirt is
laid flat
Figure 12: Sleeve placket off-centre
Figure 9: Incorrect side seam position when the shirt is
laid flat
Figure 10: Gaping at centre front
Figure 11: Sleeve placket centre aligned
finishing at bottom hem. This may
lead to asymmetric sewing torque
at right and left. The correct option
however is to use separate machine
with different folders for right side
seam and left side seam, but sewing
in the same direction. Rarely any
manufacturer uses the latter option;
and in most of the cases, even
the folder manufacturers have no
answer.
As the side seam has definite seam
width of 1/4 th inch or less, the side
seam fold line becomes an issue
while the shirt is buttoned and
kept flat. As the seam width is stiff
and fold line can’t be at the centre
of seam width, the complete seam
width is either added to back or
front. At flat position, if both the
side seams (right and left) are
folded back, then the across width
measurement difference between
across front and across back may
be half inch, which might flag a
measurement problem. To tackle
this issue, some pattern engineering
is done by adding disproportionate
seam allowance at front side seam
and back side seam. While seam
allowance of double the seam
width is added to the front, a seam
allowance of triple the seam width is
added to the back.
What is
presented here
is just a tip of
the iceberg of
shirt making.
There are many
other technical
parameters
that are being
followed which
are often
debatable, like
the buttonhole
orientation at
collar pick, the
best method of
collar runstitch
for avoiding
loose fabrics at
collar back and
many more.
While some of
these practices
are intriguing
and not
rational, some
are logical with
reasoning.
Figure 7: Check not matching between sleeve
placket and sleeve
Design nightmare
Although there are not much changes
in the style of a shirt, there are little
changes like narrow front placket
width, straps for folding up sleeve,
two piece back yoke, etc. The narrow
front placket may be designer’s
marvel but this sometimes becomes
a user’s nightmare. A shirt placket
width of one inch or more will result
in an overlap of half inch or more.
The overlap amount and spacing
of buttonhole together decide the
gaping at centre front while the shirt
is being worn (with tummy). The
designers must keep in mind that
irrational reduction of front placket
width without reducing the spacing of
buttonhole may reduce the aesthetic
wearability of the garment drastically.
The popularity of casual shirt added
a strap (inside sleeve) at the middle of
the sleeve length. The positioning of
the strap at the fold line of the sleeve
creates quality problem as well as
higher cycle time while the shirt is
being ironed.
Technically the correct positioning
would be at the back of sleeve just
after the fold line. The shirt yoke
with centre back joint can be done
through two methods: either maintain
the same grain line as one piece or
shoulder joint parellel to grain like.
As of now, it is not known which one
is technically correct although there
are construction challenges in both
methods. Sleeve plackets in most
cases are at the centre of back half of
the sleeve; there are designs where it
is off-centre.
In case of off-centre placket, the
position of cuff pleats shifts to fold
line again, creating problem during
ironing and more cycle time.
www.apparelresources.com | APRIL 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh
53