Apparel November 2019 Apparel November 2019 issue | Seite 81

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FABRIC SPEAK
One of the richest silks found in the country,
muga is predominantly produced in Assam
and neighbouring states. The silk has two main
hues—golden yellow and creamy white. Muga
silk looks inherently magnificent, and with every
wash, it only acquires more and more sheen. It
is a sturdy fabric and is believed to live through
decades. Muga is a non-mulberry silk, which is
produced mainly in Northeast India, Orissa, and
Bihar. This variant spans an entire spectrum of
hues, from creamy white to brick red. The colour
depends on the type of plant the worms feed
on. The fabric has thermostatic properties, which
enables it to keep one warm in winter and cool
in summer.
The Northeast is a virtual treasure trove of
non-mulberry silk. The governments of Mizoram,
Manipur, and Meghalaya have been actively
promoting the cultivation of muga and eri silks.
Given its impressive attributes, it is no surprise
that it is an expensive silk variety. However, it is
believed that there is extremely little awareness
regarding muga silk, both in India and abroad.
Through many initiatives, the states of Manipur
and Meghalaya have been championing it,
reviving it, and bringing it back to the mainstream.
Eri silk is now being combined with muga, tussar,
MUGA SILK LOOKS INHERENTLY
MAGNIFICENT, AND WITH EVERY
WASH, IT ONLY ACQUIRES MORE
AND MORE SHEEN. IT IS A STURDY
FABRIC AND IS BELIEVED TO LIVE
THROUGH DECADES.
and other silk yarns for more and more variations.
It has also been processed to be made finer and
easier to work with.
Another silk that has recently been making
waves is ahimsa silk. Founded by Kusuma
Rajaiah, a technical officer, it is a non-violent form
of silk, whose yarns are also considered eco-
friendly. In the making of ahimsa silk, the worms
are allowed to mature, pierce the cocoon, and fly
away as moths, after which the cocoon is used
for the creation of silk. This harmless variant is
also known as peace silk, as it nurtures nature to
the fullest.
As Kusuma Rajaiah puts it, “Ahimsa silk is
made without killing any silkworm. It poses no
harm to nature and Mother Earth.” He further
elaborates, “About 15 cocoons—or more,
depending on the size of the cocoon—are
needed to make a gram of raw silk. To make one
sari, about 30,000 cocoons are needed. This
means that we are sacrificing about 30,000
lives. Instead, we can save billions of innocent
lives if we start using, weaving, and wearing
ahimsa silk.”
APPAREL
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November 2019
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