Apparel November 2019 Apparel November 2019 issue | Page 76

FABRIC SPEAK REVIVAL NOTES Muslin, as a fabric, is increasingly being used in designer collections today. Aditya Jain, Chief Executive Officer (CEO), YAJY by Aditya Jain, says, “Muslin is an innovative tool for artisans since it is used in combination with other raw fabrics for manufacturing an outfit, hence making a unique statement. Garments such as kurtas, dupattas, and saris are, today, preferably made of muslin or have the fabric incorporated in them. Muslin can be upcycled and restructured, which 74 I APPAREL I also makes it a flexible choice.” The problem, however, is that the plants, which were the source of muslin fibre, are getting scarcer by the day. Saiful Islam says, “As it is difficult to recreate the plant’s DNA, reviving the fabric is difficult.” Muslin can be woven with many techniques, one of which is jamdani. In order to restore the trust and confidence in weavers, we chose to work with jamdani, whose motifs are extremely intricate and difficult to master; this pushes them to innovate. Having a sound sense of past techniques is a good way to make new designs; and a strong foundation always helps you move to forward. Similarly, altering designs with a specific purpose is always welcome.” “The activity of weaving muslin has lately been on the decline but at the same time, there have also been pockets of resurgence. Nevertheless, it needs to be supported at the policy-level, and taxes levied on yarn need to pulled back. The fabric has to be given its right value, and if weavers operate at a level of artistry rather than compete with mill-made products, they will benefit largely,” he adds. THE FABRIC HAS TO BE GIVEN ITS RIGHT VALUE, AND IF WEAVERS OPERATE AT A LEVEL OF ARTISTRY RATHER THAN COMPETE WITH MILL-MADE PRODUCTS, THEY WILL BENEFIT LARGELY.” November 2019