Apparel November 2019 Apparel November 2019 issue | Page 64
DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT
CHIKANKARI IS NOW
SOUGHT BY THE GLOBAL
BUYER TOO.
“Today’s bride is seeking a shaadi ka joda that
she can repeat with new presentations for the
rest of her life; she is looking for usability. And
because brides today are so clear about what
they want, and what they don’t, it is a lot easier
to create exactly what they have in mind. We give
all our patrons a lifetime guarantee to take control
of their pieces. For example, we use kamdani
and mukaish work to add a little bling to a special
piece. If it gets tarnished in any way, we take it
back, polish it, and give it back to the patron.
These are like heirlooms; you can keep them
forever,” says Anjul.
The Indians who have migrated to other
countries also make for a huge audience base for
Anjul’s work. No matter how long they have been
in another country, special occasions such as a
son or daughter’s wedding are still not considered
complete without a lovely chikankari suit. They
seek something quintessentially Indian, and
thanks to the internet, they have access to what
is happening in the world of Indian art and design.
In fact, chikankari is now sought by the global
buyer too. Anjul, from her showcases in New
62
I APPAREL I
November 2019
York and London, has found favour for her work
with patrons of different nationalities. “The global
audience is quite open to seeing the arts and
crafts of our country. For them, hand-embroidery
is a big thing, and they especially seek bespoke
chikankari work on gowns, pants, jackets, and
shirts,” Anjul shares.
COMING INTO CHIKANKARI
AND STAYING
“I got married quite early; we were then living in
Lucknow in a joint family. My mother-in-law was
a social worker, and she used to conduct health
camps at centres where women worked with
chikankari. That was my first close interaction
with the craft—the beginning of my love affair with
it. My love for the craft has always been there.
I personally feel that it is an understated art—I
always tell people that it is an art that goes from
your drawing room to your boardroom and to
weddings. I could get through an entire day with
a good and classy chikankari dress, starting from
a school outing, to a corporate meeting, followed
by a dinner. It was all about getting the right
quality, and that is what I worked on,” says Anjul.
Ever since she began, Anjul has worked with
craftsmen across many centres in different areas
of Lucknow and Awadh. “It is satisfying to know
that while we are working on the art, we are also
empowering kaarigars in many ways. While their
sense of design and art is inborn, my effort with
them has been to improve the technique. We can