Apparel November 2019 Apparel November 2019 issue | Page 64

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT CHIKANKARI IS NOW SOUGHT BY THE GLOBAL BUYER TOO. “Today’s bride is seeking a shaadi ka joda that she can repeat with new presentations for the rest of her life; she is looking for usability. And because brides today are so clear about what they want, and what they don’t, it is a lot easier to create exactly what they have in mind. We give all our patrons a lifetime guarantee to take control of their pieces. For example, we use kamdani and mukaish work to add a little bling to a special piece. If it gets tarnished in any way, we take it back, polish it, and give it back to the patron. These are like heirlooms; you can keep them forever,” says Anjul. The Indians who have migrated to other countries also make for a huge audience base for Anjul’s work. No matter how long they have been in another country, special occasions such as a son or daughter’s wedding are still not considered complete without a lovely chikankari suit. They seek something quintessentially Indian, and thanks to the internet, they have access to what is happening in the world of Indian art and design. In fact, chikankari is now sought by the global buyer too. Anjul, from her showcases in New 62 I APPAREL I November 2019 York and London, has found favour for her work with patrons of different nationalities. “The global audience is quite open to seeing the arts and crafts of our country. For them, hand-embroidery is a big thing, and they especially seek bespoke chikankari work on gowns, pants, jackets, and shirts,” Anjul shares. COMING INTO CHIKANKARI AND STAYING “I got married quite early; we were then living in Lucknow in a joint family. My mother-in-law was a social worker, and she used to conduct health camps at centres where women worked with chikankari. That was my first close interaction with the craft—the beginning of my love affair with it. My love for the craft has always been there. I personally feel that it is an understated art—I always tell people that it is an art that goes from your drawing room to your boardroom and to weddings. I could get through an entire day with a good and classy chikankari dress, starting from a school outing, to a corporate meeting, followed by a dinner. It was all about getting the right quality, and that is what I worked on,” says Anjul. Ever since she began, Anjul has worked with craftsmen across many centres in different areas of Lucknow and Awadh. “It is satisfying to know that while we are working on the art, we are also empowering kaarigars in many ways. While their sense of design and art is inborn, my effort with them has been to improve the technique. We can