Apparel November 2019 Apparel November 2019 issue | Page 57

FEATURE
as royal gifts, and the weaving of the same has
been carried forward by the Holkar lineage. This
fascinating textile comes in five types, which are
chandrakala, baingani chandrakala, chandratara,
beli, and parbi.
NALGONDA, TELANGANA
The Nalgonda district of Telangana is known
for its ikat fabric traditions. Initially exclusive to
the Nalgonda region, ikat-weaving is now also
practised widely in the villages of Puttapaka,
Pochampally, and Choutuppal. Ikat employs an
intricate warp-and-weft weaving technique, but
what sets this fabric apart is the ‘resist’ process
that the weavers employ to impart colour to
different threads. This process of tying the nodes
of the fabric in a particular pattern before dipping
it into colour allows it to acquire the said colour
sparingly. Sometimes, this is done on the thread
itself, way before it is installed onto the loom. This
technique is elaborate and painstakingly precise,
which justifies the high price of ikat.
KOTA, RAJASTHAN
Kota, a city in Rajasthan, is best known for the
eponymous silk, which has a quiet, muted sense
of grandeur to it. Saris made from Kota silk
are lightweight and simple, but they are highly
traditional in their make. Moreover, even garments
made from this silk have become a working
woman’s favourite ensemble, courtesy of its
simplicity, comfort quotient, and vibrant appeal.
Kota textiles also come with a range of blends,
the most famous being Kota doria, a beautiful mix
of cotton and silk.
Kota saris are woven using a variety of weaving
styles (such as jamdani) and surface designs
(such as buttas). Ornamentation also comes in
the form of zari threads, gota-patti work, and
much more.
THE NALGONDA DISTRICT OF
TELANGANA IS KNOWN FOR
ITS IKAT FABRIC TRADITIONS.
India’s handloom story is vast and as we keep
mapping the textiles, their lineage, and history,
we will only uncover more at every juncture.
The country’s indigenous crafts, weaves, and
designs have world-renowned fame and now with
eco-friendliness becoming a raging necessity,
handlooms are finding a special place with
designers and brands alike. Giving the handloom
contemporariness is just the first step in creating
a fair, sustainable ecosystem. So, on your next
trip to an Indian state, do not miss a chance to
explore a weaver’s humble village and through it,
dive into India’s rich textile legacy.
APPAREL
I
November 2019
I
55