Apparel November 2019 Apparel November 2019 issue | Page 42

FEATURE THE ANCIENT PAINTING AND BLOCK-PRINTING TECHNIQUE OF KALAMKARI, TODAY, FINDS ITS WAY INTO BEAUTIFUL DUPATTAS AND ODHNIS. silk dupattas, not to forget the ethereal chikankari dupattas, which are ideal to be worn during summers. Fine muslin dupattas, embroidered in pastel shades, add a touch of delicate elegance to any kind of ensemble. Phool patti ka kaam is also extensively done on dupattas—it is, however, the embroidery done on sheer crepes, chiffons, and georgettes, which are outstanding; in them, the fineness of the net is highlighted by the extremely intricate, breathtaking embroidery. The lace-like or sheer fabric is embellished using fine zardozi, kalabattu, and mukaish techniques. 40 I APPAREL I November 2019 The ancient painting and block-printing technique of kalamkari, today, finds its way into beautiful dupattas and odhnis. Ajrak-printing is also done on dupattas, wherein the do-rukha (double-sidedness) element of the fabric lends it novelty. Done using natural colours, it is also a characterisation of eco-friendliness. Block- printed dupattas from Sanganer and Bagru have also been seen finding increasing favour. Bandhani (Indian tie-dye) dupattas in a bright spectrum of shades, too, are being increasingly admired in today’s times. Apart from traditional handmade techniques, power looms and smaller jacquard looms are also seen creating some rich patterning. With boho styles reigning today, dupattas can even be made into jhola bags or origami tote bags. All these trends and style fixes only go on to show that what is technically a mere cloth is open to a tremendous amount of adaptation, and remains as relevant today as it was decades ago.