Apparel June 2019 Apparel June 2019 | Page 66

UNIQUE INITIATIVE PATOLA HOUSE: THE GENESIS The idea of setting up a museum to showcase the legacy of Patan patolas was mooted by the family, having been established in 2014. On the ground floor is a space exhibiting a variety of single and double ikats, while the floor above offers an outlet to purchase patola saris, dupattas, pocket squares and scarves. It is regarded as the only museum in the world to showcase an elaborate spectrum of single and double ikat textiles, patolas and a live weaving demonstration by a master weaver. 60 THE YARN STORY The Salvis use pure, natural dyes for their yarns. For instance, the colour red is obtained from lac, orange from manjistha, blue from indigo, and yellow from turmeric and pomegranate. These I APPAREL I June 2019 primary colours are further used to derive other shades. Given the laborious process of resist-dyeing and weaving cotton yarns, weavers turn to silk yarns, which demand equal effort but also bring in better monetary returns. These yarns are resist- dyed at a unit which is at a short distance from Patola House. The yarns are made of Chinese mulberry silk, and their usage can be traced back to the Silk Route, when traders from India would carry spices and other products in exchange for silk yarns from China. THE LOOM Stepping in through the porch of Patola House, one sees a large loom with warp yarns stretched across it to the right, where two members of the Salvi family will invariably be engrossed in weaving (as weaving of patolas involves two weavers). Interestingly, the loom is slightly slanted—with the left side being lower than the right—allowing the shuttle to pass through smoothly during the process. At the time of weaving, the warp and weft yarns have to be adjusted with just the right amount of tension in order to expose neat motifs. A long needle is used to adjust the tension of these yarns. PATOLA HOUSE IS REGARDED TO BE THE ONLY MUSEUM IN THE WORLD TO SHOWCASE AN ELABORATE SPECTRUM OF DOUBLE IKAT TEXTILES.