Apparel July 2019 Apparel July 2019 issue | Page 87

FEATURE
lends the stitch a more all-round appeal is that
it can be used on all kinds of cloths—right from
those woven on handlooms, power looms, to
those woven on mill machines; it stays well on
both natural and artificial fibres too. Running stitch
can be performed by inserting single or multiple
threads in a needle.
From traditional attire such as saris, kurtas,
and dupattas to more contemporary ones such
as tunics, stoles, and single- or multi-layered
jackets, the stitch is used to bring forth a variety
of expressions.
THE INDIAN NARRATIVE
Running stitch can be seen in different
traditional embroidery styles in India; and it is
used to define/outline a motif, to fill a motif, as
well as to give more definition to the background
fabric. Kantha, a quilting and embroidery
technique traditionally practised in West Bengal,
was conventionally created by layering strong
sections of old cotton saris and dhotis, later
embroidering all the layers with motifs carrying
the running stitch to craft quilts and wraps. After
the motifs are completed, the entire background
is filled in with running stitches that pass through
all layers, thus creating a beautiful rippled effect.
Similar to kantha is the sujani embroidery of Bihar.
The craft has undergone an intriguing evolution,
and kantha and sujani embroideries, in particular,
are now done on new, single-layered cotton and
WOMEN ARE ASSERTING
THEMSELVES THROUGH
FASHION STATEMENTS,
CHARACTERISED
NOWADAYS BY INDO-
WESTERN WEAR.
silk fabrics with traditional and non-traditional
motifs. These are meticulously designed and
planned for borders and pallu (end panels)
of saris. Apart from saris, the embroidery is
also used to adorn dupattas, stoles, stitched
garments, and unstitched yardages. In keeping
with the tradition of quilting, the backgrounds of
motifs are filled with running stitches. The stitches
in the background feature patterns such as waves
or spirals that fuel the textiles with a certain kind
of energy. Shabnam Ramaswamy, social activist
and founder of Katna’s Kantha in Murshidabad,
West Bengal, guides 1,500 women in 50 villages
to create beautiful kantha textiles including cotton
and tussar silk saris with motifs that have been
handed down through generations.
Kasuti from Karnataka is another type
of traditional Indian embroidery that is an
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