Apparel July 2019 Apparel July 2019 issue | Page 135

FEATURE a particular tradition, the role of textile museums play an equally crucial part in India. This is predominantly because the spectrum of textiles being produced (for attire for deities, men and women, domestic adornments, and other purposes) across the country as well as the diverse textile-producing techniques (different types of weaves, printing, resist-dyeing, natural dyeing, tie-dyeing, embroidering, and painting) are immense. Next, the antiquity of textile traditions in India means that there are whole—as well as fragments—of antique textiles strewn across the country, which need preservation. Further, much as Indian textiles are exquisite, there is more to them than their visual beauty—for many textiles bear woven/embroidered/printed patterns/motifs that are full of meaning; they offer insights into the identity of a certain weaver or a society at large. In many cases, the textile itself may be indicative of a certain occasion, for instance, bokani is a long, narrow scarf, which is traditionally worn by the bridegroom on his wedding day, in certain communities in Gujarat; or a Naga shawl, that has motifs, which are traditionally woven and embroidered to convey the tribe the wearer belongs to. Now more than ever, it is the call of the hour to save India’s textile heritage, what with power looms and modern techniques such as digital printing encouraging instant gratification, and the rapid inroads of alternative employment opportunities that have the younger generation of artisan families aspiring to take up employment in more lucrative fields. There have also been unfortunate instances of exquisite textiles—woven or embroidered with high-quality metallic yarn— being sold to jewellers, who burn the cloth to obtain the gold or silver, thus reducing these prized textiles to ash. EDUCATE, INFORM, AND INSPIRE Old, historical, and rare textiles preserved in museums and private collections serve to educate, inform, and inspire viewers and designers. The highlight of a textile museum is its offering of a range of textiles in one complex or gallery. In some cases, the exhibits may cover textiles from different parts of the country. For instance, The Calico Museum of Textiles, Ahmedabad and Jnana-Pravaha, Varanasi, have vast collections of fine, rare historical textiles that span time periods and different parts of the nation. On the other hand, some museums APPAREL I July 2019 I 115