Apparel December 2019 | Page 83

BRAND PROFILE artisans, of which nearly 90 per cent worked with textiles, and setting up an arbitrary label that was named Sutra Crafts. After the project was completed, the organisation decided to seize operations of the label. However, Saumya iterates, “My first thought was ‘If the project was to close, what would happen to the artisans and their families?’ Getting an MBA would mean me getting a job but working on the project would mean creating jobs for others. I was guided by my father, a development consultant, throughout the project. Running a crafts-based label/social enterprise had been his dream, and he has continued to support me through it till date.” As Saumya was deeply involved in the project, she took it over through an agreement with the foundation. In November 2013, she was the owner of Sutra Crafts! LEARNING ON FIELD Since taking over Sutra, Saumya has been working with textile clusters in different parts of the country, where she learns from artisans, designers, and textile experts, studying about textiles first-hand and from books, as she neither had formal education nor a professional background in textiles. “My love for designing saris came from watching my mother, a college professor, drape and wear beautiful saris to work. I took it further by learning on field. One can always get a designer on board but if you want to manage your label well, you first need to know all SAUMYA ENSURED THAT THE EMBROIDERY STAYED TRUE TO ITS ETHOS EVEN AS IT WAS CONTEMPORISED. about textiles yourself, right from the techniques to marketing,” she says. Saumya thus started working with Maheshwari and Chanderi weavers, ajrak and bagh block-printers, and other textile artisans. And when the opportunity presented itself, she decided to work with phulkari embroiderers. “It was a practical and emotional decision as my work was already steered towards the revival of textile crafts. Not many were working with phulkari, a beautiful, labour-intensive traditional craft, at the time, and I felt the need to bring out its true essence and stop it from fading away,” she says. BUILDING TRUST After deciding to work with phulkari, Saumya read about the craft and met experts who had sound knowledge of it. She travelled to Punjab to meet women embroiderers, where she held workshops and gave them samples to work on. Whilst doing so, Saumya ensured that the embroidery stayed true to its ethos even as it was APPAREL I December 2019 I 81