UNIQUE INITIATIVE
difficult phase for textiles as there have been
huge shifts—the phasing-out of the Multifibre
Arrangement (MFA), which created immense
pressure on pricing and production; the
emergence of fast fashion; and online channels
that have sped things up. Handmade fashion,
however, does not function like that. It needs
time and effort. So the handloom went from an
exciting to a disappointing phase during these
two decades.
In the years following 2010, hope is being
brought back as there is an increased awareness
about sustainable, slow fashion, the will to
preserve the nation’s arts and crafts, and the rise
of new compliance models and codes of practice.
The concept of natural dyes and fibres such
as bamboo, hemp, and jute, which are rooted
in Indian history and tradition, is finding newer
meanings today, hence acting as a clarion call for
revival as well as employment opportunities.
WHAT IS YOUR TAKE ON WOMEN-
LED DEVELOPMENT IN THE TEXTILES
SECTOR?
One of the biggest challenges with women
today is taking up leadership roles in the textiles
sector. Unfortunately, everyone wants to become
a designer, but very few want to become
entrepreneurs. Becoming an entrepreneur entails
hard work, consistency, and risk-taking abilities. I
believe that more and more women entrepreneurs
should come forward and lead various segments
within this sector, with which they can bring in
new ideas, innovativeness, and perspectives to
infuse creativity and imagination into this sphere.
India is one of the richest countries in terms of
“WE MAY KNOW MANY
FASHION DESIGNERS AND
BRANDS, BUT DO WE KNOW
ENOUGH ARTISANS?”
textile heritage. By exploring and reviving our
textile traditions, we can also open up alternative
sources of livelihood for a multitude of women.
INDIA HAS A WONDERFUL AND UNIQUE
TEXTILE HERITAGE...
India has a wealth of weaving, dyeing, printing,
embroidering, and surface-treatment techniques,
not to mention the increasing creativity in supply-
chain management. Unfortunately, we have
limited our imagination to employing them in the
products we make, or perhaps we are so used
to focusing only on what buyers would want, that
we have somewhere forgotten experimenting with
and revolutionising our textiles, each of which
carries a unique aesthetic.
CAN YOU TALK A LITTLE ABOUT THE
ARTISAN-DESIGNER RELATIONSHIP?
This is a tricky question. I feel that today, every
label uses the term ‘artisanal’ to describe their
philosophy or production process. The problem
arises when some of these labels use these very
artisans as cheap labour rather than focusing on
healthy, meaningful collaborations. We may know
many fashion designers and brands, but do we
know enough artisans? More often than not, they
are treated as props in the entire process.
We may have grown in terms of knowledge
and creativity but hardly when it comes to being
humane. There is a need for a model of dignity
and shared responsibility, which treats artisans
as partners throughout the process, thus
helping in bridging the gap between not only the
designer-artisan community but also the artisan-
consumer community.
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