DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT
consciously create patterns. I like to plan to
achieve what I have in mind rather than leaving it
entirely to chance. Even then, the results are 90
per cent as per plan, while the other 10 per cent
depends on the penetration of the dye. I link this
to the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi, which
accepts that handmade craft has an element of
imperfection and incompleteness that makes it
one-of-a-kind and complete,” she explains.
GARMENTING INNOVATIONS
Studio Medium’s ‘The JamBan Journals’, a
collection of saris, is a wonderful coming-together
of jamdani weaves and resist-dyeing techniques.
For the same, Riddhi had saris woven as per
designs by jamdani weavers in West Bengal, later
having them embellished with tie-dye patterns by
bandhani artisans from Gujarat.
Working with these weavers, Riddhi learnt
about the importance of the yarn count and
the quality, durability, as well as longevity of
handmade fabrics.
58
I APPAREL I
December 2019
In 2018, she design
designed ‘I Am’, a collection
hira-nui and arashi shibori
of saris, using the hira-nu
The f former i involves
creating stitches
t techniques.
h i
Th
l
on cloth before dyeing it, followed by the removal
of the threads. In the latter technique, the cloth
is wrapped around a pole before it is twisted
and dyed; somewhere, this technique is deemed
special because of the way in which the saris so
naturally drape themselves around the wearer’s
body, yet allowing them the freedom to move. In
2018, Riddhi also designed ‘Rasa’, a collection
of saris that is an amalgamation of contemporary
weaves, metallic yarns, and dyeing techniques;
and a canvas of geometry in equal amounts.
In 2019, inspired by oshibana, the Japanese
art of using pressed flowers and other botanical
elements to create artistic compositions, she
collaborated with weavers to create ethereal
jamdani saris and dresses in cotton and silk with
delicate floral and linear motifs that recreated the
effect of ‘flowers that float on air’.
OUT OF THE BLUE
Apart from designing saris, Riddhi also believes
in the idea of minimum wastage. In 2019, she
collaborated with fashion designer Tulika Ranjan
to co-create ‘Out of the Blue’, a strikingly
beautiful capsule collection of garments. Riddhi
and Tulika bonded on multiple levels—from
appreciating Japanese aesthetics to viewing a
circle as an inspiration for surface design—and
found themselves collaborating instinctively and
naturally. Their primary focus was to play around
with circles using the shibori technique and
natural indigo dye.
“Indigo is a beautiful colour. I regard it as
the colour of life and appreciate its attribute of
bringing in a sense of calmness. Dyeing cloth
with indigo is a rigorous process. It involves