Apparel December 2019 | Seite 45

FEATURE island such as Lido, where one may be staying) takes one to Burano in less than half an hour. This island is instantly identified due to the colourful homes of fishermen, and soon it is apparent that each one is painted with a distinct colour! The reason for this is that in times past, fishermen could demarcate individual property by this method and when they returned from the sea and the fog hung heavy, each would be able to identify his home by its colour. STITCHES IN THE AIR Historical accounts state that the art of handmaking lace came to Burano from Venice approximately in the 1620s and was made at convents, orphanages, and homes by girls and women. As the lace was not stitched on a fabric but created on the base of the thread itself, it came to be known as punto in aria, which means ‘stitches in the air’. Soon after, the lace became one of the most prized possessions of the island, and widely came to be known as ‘Burano lace’. It is exquisite in its make, and features the beauty of a fretted screen of intertwined and flowing blossoms, buds, leaves, and stalks, which are created by painstakingly working thousands of neat, minute stitches. Burano lacemaking follows several well-defined steps. The pattern is drawn on paper and backed with cloth. A transparent paper is placed on top, and the layers are then tacked together. Most—or all—of the pattern is then outlined with a gimp thread (which is tacked through the pattern and fabric) using the guipure stitch, which creates the skeleton of the work. Subsequent stitches are then rendered linking the guipure stitch and LACEMAKING TRADITION If this strikes you as charming, there is yet another delightful legend. It is said that a fisherman who was engaged to a young woman from the island was out at sea, when a beautiful siren sought to attract his attention. As he did not give into her charms, the siren queen was impressed by his faithfulness and swished her tail, sending up a foamy wave that magically transformed into a wedding veil. And when the fisherman took it back for his bride-to-be, it caught the attention of the women on the island, who recreated its delicacy and beauty using needle and thread. According to another anecdote, a fisherman brought delicate seaweed from far for his beloved. Realising that it would gradually disintegrate, the woman recreated its ethereal beauty with needle and thread and thus produced a piece of fine lace filigree. Another legend has it that women on Burano deftly mended nets for fishermen with fine stitches and this practice led them to create the lace that is today known globally. BURANO LACEMAKING FOLLOWS SEVERAL WELL-DEFINED STEPS. APPAREL I December 2019 I 43