Apparel August 2019 Apparel August 2019 issue | Page 95

GOING GREEN IS UPCYCLING ENOUGH? Despite the well-intentioned actions of some apparel companies towards reducing plastic waste, there are legitimate concerns that upcycling may not be enough. The fundamental reality that man-made plastics are mostly non-biodegradable and continue to embed themselves into the natural ecosystem, remains. This impact, spread across decades, is extremely difficult to roll back as scientists have discovered that nearly 85 per cent of all man-made plastics are now littering the ocean and shorelines in the form of microfibres, a third of which are from synthetic textiles used in garments. Their small size makes it nearly impossible to separate them from the environment, with the majority of these microfibres contaminating the aquatic food chain due to their small size. Additionally, the process of upcycling itself still requires a significant amount of improvements to truly become environment-friendly. For example, plastic bottles that are upcycled into yarn follow a process that requires PET to be converted into polyester. This process releases a chemical called antimony, which is known to be carcinogenic and leads to numerous respiratory ailments. The core objective of upcycling apparel can be considered a step in the right direction but it may not be enough from the perspective of THE REAL CHALLENGE FOR THE APPAREL INDUSTRY, THUS, IS FINDING NEW PRODUCTION METHODS, WHICH MOVE AWAY FROM PLASTIC-BASED PRODUCTS. environmental sustainability. Already, the apparel industry is poised to be responsible for nearly 25 per cent of the total carbon emissions by 2050 as it relies significantly on freshly produced plastic- based synthetic materials, which are growing at about eight per cent annually. The real challenge for the apparel industry, thus, is finding new production methods, which move away from plastic-based products; those that dig deeper into this enormous problem of plastic waste, and innovate materials, designs, techniques, and business models that are just and fair to the environment. Given the current environmental stakes—rising sea levels, increasing extreme- weather events, and growing pollution—the industry may eventually lose the planet if it carries on with business as usual. APPAREL I August 2019 I 89