Apparel August 2019 Apparel August 2019 issue | Page 72

FEATURE
minimised, thus aiding the whole process. In this
way, chikankari was traditionally regarded as a
coveted embellishment for summer wear,
and to this day, has been effectively used for
cooler weathers.
Likewise, Malavika selects a different set of
stitches that can be worked on denser and
thicker fabrics such as khadi and wool. For
instance, stitches such as bakhiya (similar to
herringbone stitch, which is worked on the
reverse side of the fabric) and tepchi (a running
stitch with long stitches) can be worked on mul
or similarly wispy fabrics. For thicker winter wear,
she uses stitches that can be worked from the
main face of the cloth, such as phanda, ghas
patti, hatkati, kouri, balda, kaante, and murri.
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I APPAREL I
August 2019
THE RISE OF COMPUTER-AIDED
EMBROIDERY
An unfortunate result of the incessant demand of
chikankari is its replication by machine. “The entry
of machine embroidery has been disillusioning.
At an overseas fair a few months ago, where
we were showcasing our hand-embroidered
chikankari garments, there was a stall from Surat,
displaying computer-aided embroidered garments
manufactured in China, whose embroidery
replicated authentic chikankari. Machine-
embroidered garments were selling at one-tenth
the price of our garments. For most customers,
it really did not matter if the embroidery was
machine-made or handmade. As the former was
inexpensive, it sold in an instant,” Malavika says.
She elaborates, “As it is, working hand-
embroidered chikankari demands huge effort
and attention through all the stages. A chikankari
sari, for example, could take an artisan a year
to embroider. Then there are issues related to
the thorough cleaning of textiles. A machine-
embroidered sari is completed in a matter of
hours. It is in pristine condition and inexpensive.
How does a hand-embroidered sari hold up
against it? In hand-embroidered works, the
artisan carefully thinks of which stitches to use
for each part of a motif, such as petals, leafs, the
veins of a leaf and stem, etc. From the original
repertoire of about 40 stitches and 10 types of jali
work, only about nine stitches and two types of
jali work are in regular use today. Some stitches
seem to be lost forever. The younger generation
is looking out for more secure and well-paying
occupations. Given these factors, hand-worked
chikankari is in a delicate state today.”