Step 3
Use spacers for perfectly positioned cleats.
Cut a 3/4-inch square dowel for
the cleats (C). Use wood glue
and screws to secure them
to the divider and the inside
walls of the cabinet. For perfect
spacing every time, cut two
scraps to the cleat mounting
height, position the scraps in
the cabinet and rest cleat on
top. Now attach each cleat in
the perfect position every time.
(Photo 2).
Step 4
Cut the two shelves (D) from a
1 x 10; cut the shelf edging (E)
from a 1 x 2. Set the shelves
in the cabinet on the cleats -you'll notice these shelves are
a little short like the divider;
this is for easy insertion into
the cabinet. (Do not glue them
in position; they'll be easier to
paint later if you remove them.)
While the shelves are in place,
drill pilot holes and attach the
shelf edging (E) with screws.
Mark the shelf edging that goes
with each shelf and remove
them.
Step 5
Cut the tool holders (F) to
length and drill five 1/2-inch
holes 3/8-in deepon both
boards. Now cut ten 1/2-inch
round dowels to 1-3/8-inch long
and glue into the holes. When
the glue dries, temporarily
secure the holders in position
with screws.
Good to Know
Many times instructions direct
you to attach parts and then re-
move them. That's because the
parts are easier to paint or finish if they're loose. If you tried
to attach them later -- marking
for position and drilling pilot
holes and screws - you may
damage the finish. In the end,
this saves time and makes for a
better result.
MAKE A TOP AND THE
DOOR
Step 1
Drill holes in the corners and
cut the sink opening.
Retrieve the top (G) you cut
earlier. Mark out the locations
of the burners, the holes for
the knobs, and the sink cutout
(Project Diagram, Drawing 2).
Drill 3/8-inch holes near the
corners of the sink opening to
slip in the blade of a jigsaw. Cut
the sink opening (Photo 3).
Step 2
Cut the backsplash (H) from a 2
x 4 the same length as the top
(Project Diagram, Cutting List
and Cutting Diagram). Sand the
board and apply to the back of
the top using glue and screws.
Good to Know
Use a clean-cut jigsaw blade
and move the saw slowly -- this
top is thick and the faster you
move the saw, the more the
blade may flex. A slow, steady
cut is a straight cut.
Step 3
Center the top and align the
back of the backsplash even
with the back of the cabinet
(Project Diagram, Drawing 3)
and then temporarily clamp the
top to the cabinet.
Step 4
Add the sink boards to the top.
Cut four 1/2-inch round dowels
1-11/16 inches long. Glue the
dowels into the holes in the
handles (Project Diagram,
Drawing 4). When the glue
dries, set the handles aside.
Cut the sink front/back (I) and
sink ends (J) to length and
insert into the opening. Cut the
parts so they fit with just slight
pressure (the cuts from the
jigsaw will cause these dimensions to vary slightly); test-fit
the parts until all four parts
are in place (Photo 4). Once the
four parts fit into the opening,
remove them and apply glue to
the ends of the sink parts and
to the inside of the sink opening (do not glue them to the top
of the cabinet as you insert the
parts).
Step 5
Cut the door (K) to size, and
mark out the positions of the
knob and handle holes and the
opening for the acrylic. Drill
clearance holes for a jigsaw
blade, cut the opening in the
door, and sand the opening
smooth.
Step 6
Cut the 3/4-inch square dowels
to length for the short handle
(L) and the long handle (M). The
short handle will be mounted to
the door you just made (K). The
long handle will be mounted to
the existing door. Use painter's
tape to secure the handles to
the doors so they are centered
vertically in the middle of the
vertical part of the door.
Step 7
From the backside of the door,
drill a 1/2-inch hole 1-1/8 inches deep through the door into
the handle. Mark your drill bit
with painter's tape 1-1/8 inches
from the end of the bit, and
then drill the holes -- drilling
though the door into the handle
aligns both parts. Now remove
the handles and tape.
MAKE THE DOOR
Step 1
Step 2
Cut the eight 1-inch-long
sections of 1-1/2-inch diameter
dowel for the knobs (N). Drill
1/2-inch holes 1/2 inch deep,
centered in the back face of
the knobs (Project Diagram,
Drawing 5).
Step 3
Clamp the knobs for safe
drilling.
Small pieces of wood can be
tricky and dangerous to drill
if you try to hold the piece
of wood in your hand. Use a
clamp to secure the pieces, and
add a second clamp to keep
the part from moving on your
workbench. This will keep your
hands clear so you can focus on
drilling accurately (Photo 5).
Step 4
You will need to cut a variety
of 1/2-inch dowel lengths to
mount the knobs in different
locations (Project Diagram,
Drawings 5 & 9). For the two
faucet knobs, you'll need
two 2-inch-long dowels; for
the four stovetop knobs and
the faucet dowel, you'll need
1-11/16-inch-long dowels; and
for the oven knobs, you'll need
1-1/4-inch knobs. After cutting
and sanding the parts, glue the
dowel pieces into the knobs.