A D VE N T U R E S
WATA R R KA N P, NT
CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT:
Fork-leafed corkwood
is just one of many local
species; a few large trees
thrive, despite the harsh
environment; Garden of
Eden offers a chance
to recharge midway
through the Canyon
Rim Walk.
groves of coolabahs and
red gums and with many
interpretive signs that
explain the geology, vegetation
and birdlife. The trail ends at a
viewing platform affording stunning views
of the towering sandstone walls that
enclose the canyon. Beyond this point is a
traditional ceremonial place that is sacred
to the Luritja people and only men fully
initiated into their culture may go there.
A much longer and, in parts, strenuous,
but very rewarding excursion is the Kings
Canyon Rim Walk, rated by many as
one of the best in central Australia for
its diversity and spectacular views. This
6km loop begins with a steep, 500-step
climb of more than 100m to the plateau
above the canyon. As the trail can only be
followed in a clockwise direction, there’s
no avoiding this ascent but it can be
interrupted part of the way up at a lookout
with an impressive view down Kings
Creek Valley and along the buttressed
escarpment of the George Gill Range.
Once on the plateau, the trail is fairly
easy, following the gorge’s northern rim
across tiers of weathered sandstone clad
76
ADVENTURES
in a smattering of spinifex,
white cypress and ghost
gums. Several vantage
points reveal spectacular views
along the canyon and across to the
opposite wall. Near the top of the canyon,
the track undulates through the Lost City,
a maze of domed beehive formations, and
a 600m detour follows a projecting spur to
Cotterill’s Lookout with vertiginous views
into the canyon.
About halfway around the loop, the
trail descends a wooden staircase into the
delightfully lush Garden of Eden, a narrow
gorge lined with ferns and prehistoric
cycads and ending at a large permanent
pool embraced by an amphitheatre of vivid
orange-red sandstone. This shady grotto
is the perfect spot to take a break, cool
off and enjoy the quiet ambience of this
secluded oasis.
Another staircase climbs out of the
gorge as the trail continues around the
canyon’s southern rim on the return
leg. Many consider this part of the loop
the most scenic, as it meanders through
another swarm of weathered domes,
narrow gaps and rugged valleys, emerging
at strategic lookouts over the sheer-sided
canyon and the rugged George Gill Range
at Kestrel Falls.
So hostile is this arid environment
that national park authorities restrict
access to the Kings Canyon Rim Walk
during periods of hot weather. On days
when the forecast maximum is 36°C or
higher (which is often the case), the Rim
Walk is closed after 9am. Even when the
temperatures are not so high, there is
very little shade on the walk and visitors
should be wary of dehydration. It is best
to start the walk early in the day and be
well prepared with lots of water, a hat,
sturdy shoes, sunscreen and snacks. And
although you’re likely to encounter many
other walkers on the track, this is remote
country and emergency radios have been
installed along the trail and at the car
park, along with first aid boxes at the top
of the canyon.
Two other walks reveal different
aspects of this diverse national park. The
Kathleen Springs Walk (2.6km return) is
an easy stroll through open terrain to a
permanent, spring-fed waterhole at the
head of Kathleen Gorge, with interpretative