Adventures Magazine 2 | Page 49

LEFT: The beach gives way to a surf-pounded rocky shore. BELOW LEFT: Time for a sit-down coffee in the shade. FACTS GETTING THERE To reach Red Bluff, turn off the North West Coastal Highway 24km north of Carnarvon and continue for 50km to the blowholes. Turn north and follow the coast for 9.5km to Quobba Station’s homestead campground, and continue another 54km to Red Bluff. ACTIVITIES your adventure leads you here, you can volunteer to assist with research programs during your stay. While facilities at Red Bluff are undoubtedly basic, the spacious campsites nestled up the cliff are positioned in lovely, private nooks, some shaded and each with a fire pit. All offer incredible ocean views and there are 15 drop toilets housed in little thatched humpies dotted around the camping area, so it’s never a long trip to the loo. That’s pretty much the extent of facilities, unless you splurge on one of the canvas-tented bungalows that come with access to a shared kitchen area. Firewood is available from the camp office but you’ll need to bring plenty of water for drinking and washing. One thing you can get on site is a great coffee and an easy meal, thanks to Monique and Reid Durant, who have been satisfying appetites at Red Bluff for 20 years. Their mango milkshakes and Saturday night pizzas are legendary, and there are few places as tranquil as the store’s ocean-view deck to enjoy a caffeine fix. The pair bought Red Bluff Store back in 1995 after a few years spent migrating between the equally magnetic Margaret River and Red Bluff. They went on to transform the tiny timber store into a stellar little cafe and built a completely self-sufficient home while raising their ever-growing family of eight kids. Now aged between eight and 22 years, six of the Durant kids still live at Red Bluff and the two who have left come back regularly to surf the barrel. Along with groceries and hot snacks, Red Bluff Store sells Monique’s fabulous beach-inspired jewellery and I still find it amazing that you can get a great coffee so far off the grid. Head here for a breakfast latte and to meet the remarkable Monique. Marvel at the power of the blowholes. Relax and enjoy the peaceful off-grid beachside camping experience. Experience the rush of surfing the Bluff Barrel. Try your luck fishing if the sea is calm. MORE INFORMATION Unpowered campsites at Red Bluff cost $15 per person (pit toilets only, no drinking water). Dogs on leads are permitted but you’ll need to part with a $50 bond at the office upon check-in. For camping at Red Bluff, phone camp managers Jim and Bek on (08) 9948 5001. The Quobba Station homestead campground provides hot showers, power and drinking water, and campsites cost $13/$16 (unpowered/powered). For enquires phone (08) 9948 5098. Visit www.quobba.com.au Time your trip to catch the Carnarvon TropiCool Festival (late May) or Gascoyne Food Festival (mid-August). Find out more about the region at www.australiascoralcoast.com or www. carnarvon.org.au or phone the Carnarvon Visitor Centre on (08) 9941 1146. ADVENTURES 49