Adventures Magazine 2 | Page 47

you won’t find at remote Red Bluff. It’s a spacious, albeit unshaded, camp and if you’re into fishing, there’s a great spot 3km north of the homestead where a brief break in the overhanging cliffs provides access down onto the sand. Anglers can expect catches of dart, tailor, trevally, snapper and mulloway. In my humble opinion, the homestead lacks the appeal of far-flung Red Bluff, but makes a decent base camp if the fish are biting, you crave power and need a shower, or don’t think your rig will survive the hour-long trip north. If you do overnight here, Red Bluff is an excellent day trip away. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Quobba's shallow lagoon protects coral reef; campsites and coffee at laidback Red Bluff; watching the waves; it's beautiful but can be deadly: a memorial to a surfer; the headland swell magnetises surfers; Monique Durant runs the Red Bluff Store. SURF, SAND AND SEA The road between the homestead and Red Bluff veers inland across the plains, pulling you away from an amazing coastal strip until you’ve cleared Rio Tinto’s mine haul roads. The track is reputedly graded during the peak winter travel season, but we found the corrugations too shaky for conversation as we neared the turnoff to Red Bluff. If you intend to take a van to Red Bluff, stop at the homestead or phone ahead to enquire about road conditions before heading out. It takes about an hour to travel the 54km from the homestead to Red Bluff campground, where sites are carved into a grassy hillside that drops gently to the beach. Stretching seaward at the south of the bay, Red Bluff’s flattop finger of rock interrupts the swell that peels off its point and curls and rolls over a reef break to form what wannasurf.com calls a ‘totally epic’ wave. You can follow the board riders along a rocky goat track that leads to the very end of the bluff to watch them take on the Bluff Barrel or simply to enjoy the views from this invigorating spot. It’s also a lovely place to watch an Indian ADVENTURES 47