A D VE N T U R E S
T
R E D B L U F F, WA
he headland
swell that peels
off Red Bluff has
magnetised west
coast surfers for
decades, drawing
them to a remote
beach camp a
bumpy, two-hour
trip north of
Carnarvon. Riding
the epic left-hander by day and dossing
down in swags and tents overnight has
long been a ritual for wave riders, but
it’s Red Bluff’s invigorating seascape
and rustic campsites nestled against the
cliffs, that are luring travellers to this
one-in-a-million west coast surf Mecca.
After a 20-year hiatus, I finally made
44
ADVENTURES
it back to Red Bluff to discover that
this laid back spot has changed very
little. The facilities are still primitive,
the endless white sand beach remains
utterly pristine and we still shake, rattle
and roll as we cruise north along the
coastal access track. The famous ‘Bluff
Barrel’ is as powerful as ever and the
family-run Red Bluff Store continues to
serve up a mean coffee in the weatherbeaten shack overlooking the sea.
Located on Quobba Station, at the
southern edge of Ningaloo Marine Park,
Red Bluff doesn’t offer much in the way
of camper facilities. There’s no power
or showers, water or firewood, but the
allure of this back-to-basics camping
experience is palpable. Looking out
from our shady camp clearing, I watch
a surfer as she teeters momentarily
on the lip of a crystal blue wave before
dropping down, carving a path to the
left and shooting north out into the bay.
It’s exhilarating just to watch, let along
experience, and there’s an energy here
that pulls me down onto the beach to
expend a little myself.
Thankfully for non-surfers, Red Bluff’s
appeal stretches beyond its worldfamous waves. There are coral reefs and
wreck sites to dive and snorkel, great
beach fishing, and the best blowholes
on the west coast – all within easy reach
of this remarkable wilderness camp.
Accessible to 4WD vehicles with offroad
caravans, camper trailers or tents,
Red Bluff also rents out plush safari
tents and is less than an hour’s drive