Russia-based delegates were not allowed to attend TMW , but several Russian event professionals who are no longer based in the country were at the festival .

These included Serbia-based Stefan Kazaryan , who used to run Moscow Music Week and Bol festival , as well as Berlin-based Natasha Padabed , owner of booking agency More Zvukov . Of the 911 conference delegates , two were from Ukraine , including Vladyslav Yaremchuk , booking manager of Kyiv ’ s Atlas Festival .

Creative hub Tallinn ’ s creative district Telliskivi was once again bustling with activity on the first two nights of the festival , with an emotive concert by Ukrainian pop star Ivan Dorn kicking off the event in Telliskivi Square in front of 3,000 people .

“ I really sensed that people had the need to dance together ,” says Sildna . “ Being tired of the pandemic but also wanting to experience something positive together , it ’ s very important .”

Among the festival ’ s many weird and wonderful venues was the hip Sveta Bar , owned by Mancunian expat Luke Teetsov-Faulkner , as well as the eccentric Club of Different Rooms , which makes attendees swap their shoes for sandals or slippers upon entry .

A short Bolt trip away , underground techno nightclub HALL is a strictly-no-photography zone that features break-off rooms , beds and hypnotic installations in a factory-like setting .

As well as Dorn , fellow Ukrainian artists alyona alyona , FO SHO , Gentle Ropes and Krapka ; KOMA performed at the festival , with the latter three also having been granted free use of Tallinn ’ s studio89 , mentoring and accommodation in Tallinn .

“ All three artists were forced to leave their homeland ,” says TMW manager of educational programming Terje Trochynskyi . “ In addition to performances , they are looking for a chance to complete their unfinished works in Estonia in collaboration with our musicians , who could support them either in recording drum parts or creating new beats .

“ One of the residents is planning to stay here longer and is also willing to apply his skills in the service of the studio .”

TMW head of communication and programme curator Ingrid Kohtla says the festival received 24 applications from Ukrainian artists . Two of the artists originally confirmed could not attend and there were more artists who wished to take up the residence but were not able to for reasons including having to fight on the front line .

Next stop : Station Narva The contrast between Tallinn and Narva is stark . While Estonia ’ s capital is used to welcoming tourists to its quaint medieval Old Town , Narva is a city that is rough around the edges , having been largely destroyed during the Second World War . Some 95 % of its population are Russian speakers .

Outside Narva ’ s Vaba Lava theatre , Estonia ’ s president Alar Karis addressed the herd of delegates , most of whom had just made the threehour coach journey from Tallinn . He said , “ Music cannot go silent when cannons are blaring . Musicians and event organisers around the world have given countless charity concerts in support of Ukraine .

“ In addition to the millions donated within these events , these concerts have drawn the attention of millions , tens of millions , of people to this brutal war , and they have brought the world together to stand

PHOTO : ANA MARKOVA

against evil .” The walk from Station Narva ’ s streetside entrance to the venue , the home of five-year-old music festival Station Narva , is like no other .

Attendees , some of whose mobile phones picked up Russian networks , walked across the bridge to Kreenholm Island , where they were surrounded by the Narva River that separates Russia from Estonia . Across the bridge sits an abandoned 19th century red-brick textile factory complex – once the largest factory in the Russian Empire that used to house around 10,000 workers . The venue ’ s courtyard hosted several Brits on stage including Floating Points , rapper Black Josh and singer songwriter Tirzah , who brought TMW to an epic , albeit unusual , climax in the rain .

“ Artists and creators teach the world empathy and compassion ,” says Karis . “ They teach us the art of being human . Let ’ s not forget that musicians and event organisers are among some of those who took the worst blows over the past two years because of coronavirus .

“ May art and culture help us be better , more empathetic and compassionate .”

The next edition of Tallinn Music Week takes place from 10-14 May 2023 .

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