COLLECTING
store—a difficult task indeed. There are some watches referred to as
HEUER DAYTONA
“New Old Stock,” but unless it stayed in a dry and dark drawer for five
decades, a watch rarely lives up to this somewhat misleading label.
Then comes the common question of polished or not polished?
There are many serious watch collectors who do not want polished
watches. I personally do not polish watches unless it’s a contemporary
piece. I’ve witnessed watches losing over $10,000 in value just be-
cause the lugs weren’t polished properly. Make no mistake, polishing a
watch takes great skill and your precious vintage watches should only
be trusted to properly trained professionals that are up to the task.
Another component to pay close attention to is the dial of the
watch, especially the lume. Radium vs. tritium, untouched vs. re-lumed,
the color of the patina, and so on, are just a few things to consider.
Collectors today are sensitive to the type of luminescent material on
the watch as it play s a big part in the final price.
NIVADA CROTON
PROVENANCE
Last, but certainly not least, is the importance of the provenance of
the watch. As expected, a one-owner vintage watch will command
higher prices than a multi-owner watch. Service history of the watch
also plays a part here, where work done by certified watchmakers
from brands like Omega or Breitling or CW21-certified watchmakers
enhance the credentials of the watch, thus driving up the value of the
piece in question.
Original boxes and papers add about ten percent to fifteen
percent of value to the watch– and I always appreciate a full set. For
example, a LeCoultre Futurematic bought in 1954 and kept by the
same person, serviced by an Omega certified watchmaker, and sold
as a full complete set with packaging and papers is a great purchase in
the vintage market. While its price may sit under $2,500, it’s a collect-
ible piece because of its provenance and accompanying accessories.
To conclude, under the shadows of million-dollar watches, the
vintage watch market does offer a large variety of beautiful watches at
more affordable prices. You just have to be willing to do your home-
LAURENT MARTINEZ is the proprietor of Laurent Fine Watches
Greenwich, Connecticut. Read more by him at blog.laurentfinewatches.com
or visit his store’s site at www.laurentfinewatches.com
34 | AboutTime Magazine
work, be disciplined, and above all else, be patient. Eventually, you’ll
find that perfect vintage watch that speaks to your taste and falls right
into your budget range.