COLLECTING
VULCAIN CRICKET
However, the brand that has the most to offer is Omega—they are same period are much more in demand to suit contemporary tastes.
excellent quality watches that are very reliable, beautifully designed, As always, there’s a strong demand for military-style vintage watches
and continue to hold or appreciate in value over time. too, with brands like Airain and Omega standing out.
MOVEMENTS HOW TO BUY
Aside from brand names, another element that impacts the perceived As with anything, when buying a vintage watch, there are a few key
value of a vintage watch is the type of movement that powers the watch. principles to follow to optimize your purchase. The first and more
Famous movement brands include Valjoux, Venus (of Breitling important point to keep in mind is, of course, the authenticity and
fame), and Landeron. Typically, brands that run on Valjoux movements originality of the watch. Does it have the right movement with the right
retain their value well since they are coveted by collectors, while Lan- case? Is the dial in original untouched condition with the correct hands
deron calibers were often destined for less expensive models. Within and lume? Does the case include the original crown?
the same brand, some calibers are more sought after than others.
Once the authenticity and honesty of the parts have been verified,
Take for example the iconic Valjoux 72 compared to the lesser-known it’s time to inspect the overall condition of the watch. But given the
Valjoux 7733 of the Vulcain Panda. nature of vintage watches, it’s often a tradeoff between condition and
The function of the watch is an important parameter right now
original parts. Value-wise, it’s always better to opt for a watch with all
too. People tend to favor GMT, anti-magnetic, alarm, or chronograph original parts in less than stellar condition than a watch in mint condi-
vintage watches. Also, since the majority of watches from the 1960s tion with replacement parts. There are plenty collectors out there who
were usually smaller in size, about 33-34mm, larger ones from the want a vintage watch to look as new as it did the day it came out of the
32 | AboutTime Magazine