AboutTime #14 | страница 9

Going Mechanical Known for a wide catalog of quartz movements, Ronda AG jumps (back) into mechanical. O ne can only assume that the Swatch Group’s strategy to severely curtail (and even stop) supplying movements and components to companies outside its own group has worked. While most members of the watch press & industry saw the move as a power grab to corner the market, the late Nick Hayek Sr. is on record claiming that the motivation was to force outside brands to become more ‘creative’ – or at least autonomous. Whether you accept this premise of ‘stimulating the competition’ or not, the net effect has (to some extent) met Mr. Hayek’s proposed motivations. Soprod, Selitta, Eterna and a handful of other Swiss manufacturers as well as a few stronger independent brands have taken up the challenge to fill the looming void. We can now add another major player to this list: Ronda. Returning to manufacturing mechanical movements after a hiatus of more than 25-plus years, Ronda is positioning its new mechanical Calibre 150 to fill a price gap under the ETA 28 series, which can range from around $100-$300 depending on decoration, regulation, origin, and other variables. It’s also positioned over the Miyota 9000 series that can be purchased in the $50 range. Officially introduced in March at the 2016 Baselworld fair with an expected commercial delivery date at the end of 2017, Ronda is targeting a retail price of right around $70 for a base model. I’ve little doubt that Ronda, like ETA, will offer various levels of finishing and regulation at different prices. The Calibre 150 is a 3-hand with date movement that will qualify as Swiss Made even though the company was remarkably transparent about the fact that some components are manufactured in Thailand. Ronda does stipulate that it will continue to qualify for the Swiss Made label even as the rules evolve to integrate more ‘Swissness’ into all Swiss Made products using the trademark. Strictly speaking the new caliber is pretty standard fare. It’s an 11 ½ lignes (26mm) diameter x 4.4mm automatic winding, 25-jewel movement with a 40-hour power reserve. Its escapement is a standard Swiss lever style beating at 28,800 bph. Shock resistance is via the standard Incabloc system and both the mainspring and hair spring are made of modern anti-magnetic and thermo compensated alloys. Accuracy is estimated at 20-30 seconds per day out of the box, but the Cal 150 is fitted with an index regulating system and with a little time on the Witschi, I’m sure a qualified watchmaker could fine-tune (regulate) the Cal 150 to achieve even better performance. Whether or not the new Cal 150 could be massaged to COSC-level certification remains to be seen. Based on the projected price you can probably expect to see these movements in watches ranging from as little as $500 up to as much as $2,000 depending on the total package of components. Knowing that Ronda owns 30% of the American-based Shinola brand, I would not be in the slightest bit surprised to see this movement make an appearance in one of Shinola’s new releases. AboutTime Magazine | 9