NOBU MATSUHISA
PF How would you describe the Umi Uma experience ?
NM Umi Uma is a 60-seat restaurant , so not too big . It ’ s a mix of homey , friendly , and comfortable , with really good food and service . Because it ’ s on a cruise ship , it ’ s homier – as you get to know the same customers every day . That means you get to make it more like a family .
PF What first attracted you to working with Crystal to create a restaurant concept at sea ?
NM Well , I started it in 2003 , and in the beginning , it was a big challenge for me . We have restaurants in cities , but we never did it on a cruise ship because I worried about how I could get fresh products and how I could do business every day . So , I started the challenge little by little , just to understand more than before . But I already had the concept with Matsuhisa with exactly the same menu , and the same service , which I started with Crystal Cruises .
PF When you were creating this restaurant , what was your number-one priority ?
NM It ’ s quality . Because again , my concern from the beginning was , “ How can I get fresh products ?” You know , I like to go to another country , and I like to see the market , even the fish market and vegetable market . I like to find new products and bring them to the restaurant and start cooking for myself . And as for sustainability , from the beginning , I don ’ t want to waste anything . I appreciate what it means to catch fresh fish and to find good quality vegetables and meat . But I really don ’ t want to waste anything and as much as possible , use everything .
PF When you think about the concept of ikegai ( the things that give your life worth , meaning , or purpose ), what does it mean to you as a restaurateur ?
NM I started when I was 18 , and a career as a chef was my dream . I ’ m in the restaurant business not only to make money , but to have customers coming , enjoying their dinner , smiling , and then coming back again . This is what I want to do every day , so this is my ikegai .
PF When did you know you wanted to do this for a living ?
NM When I was a kid , my brother took me to a sushi restaurant . This was my first experience . This was the first time I sat at the counter and watched the chef make [ the sushi ] one by one . This experience wowed me , and I knew then I wanted to be chef .
PF Is it possible to become a sushi master if you don ’ t have that singular focus and commitment ?
NM Anyone can make sushi , but if people want to go to the next level , it has to be with passion . Without passion , they ’ re just doing the job .
PF When you hire people , how can you tell if they have that passion ?
NM In the beginning I interviewed new people myself . My first question was , “ Do you like to make sushi and do you like cooking ?” Some people , before I asked the question , said , “ How much will you pay me ?” That means I ’ m not going to hire them .
PF Can you talk a little bit about the design of Umi Uma and your thinking behind it ?
NM In the restaurant business , the most important things are good food , good service , and good atmosphere . For me , the design is important and it ’ s part of that combination of good food , good service , and good atmosphere .
PF How would you describe the style of service at Umi Uma ?
NM Umi Uma is only 60 seats , so you have to pay close attention . But I ’ m not looking for Michelin-style service ; it ’ s more casual , with good food and people eating while they ’ re comfortable .
PF Will you be cooking on any of the cruises ? Can we expect to see you behind the counter at Umi Uma ?
NM Of course . I go on cruises , and I ’ m a guest chef . I cook , I do a cooking demonstration , and I stay in the kitchen to create new dishes with the chefs . Cooking is my life ; cooking is my job .
PF The original Nobu opened in New York in 1994 , so this year marks its 30th anniversary . Looking back , what are you most proud of ?
NM I started training as a chef at 18 , after finishing high school . Now , 56 years later , we have 56 Nobu restaurants and 16 Matsuhisa restaurants . We ’ re on five continents . I have so much that I ’ m proud of . At the same time , all the teams grew like my family . So , I ’ m proud of that , too .
PF Japanese and Peruvian cuisine fusion was a new concept in 1994 . What inspired you to bring those flavors together ?
NM I was born in Japan , and I started training in Japan . Japan is very simple . For sashimi you use soy sauce and wasabi . But when I moved to Peru when I was 24 , I tasted a ceviche . And ceviche is the same fish but cooked with lemon juice . They never use soy sauce . And then they use garlic , chili paste , cilantro , all the same fish , but cooked in a completely different way . After this experience , my eyes opened , and it meant cooking with more freedom . Then I started to create more while keeping the simple product but cooking in a different way .
PF Black Cod with miso is the dish you ’ re most famous for . Why do you think it struck a chord with so many people ?
NM The miso cod is basically a very traditional Japanese food . In Japan , we didn ’ t use to have refrigerators . To make the fish keep longer , you marinated or salted . With the black cod , I started to marinate one day , two days , three days . And finally , after three days , I cooked it for myself , and it tasted great . Then I put it on the menu and started recommending it to customers . The first one ate it and loved it . Then the second customer loved it . After a while it became my signature dish and the most world famous .
PF Do you think you ’ ll ever retire ?
NM I like to keep working and I like to keep spending time with my team . I like to see my customers as much as possible . You know , life is beautiful . And I enjoy my life . That means no retirement .
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