ICON
Zimmer was a caterer with connections to the restaurant industry and “ she taught me to cook ,” Selland says . Separately and together , they ended up working at various high-end regional eateries of the day , including The Cookery , whose chef de cuisine , Kevin Nichols , “ was a true mentor .” Eventually , the couple was able to save up enough money to open The Kitchen .
“ Randall Selland and Nancy Zimmer set the bar for what we think of as Sacramento hospitality — elegant , welcoming and inclusive ,” says longtime fan , colleague and former employee Mulvaney , still marveling at the changes Selland ’ s restaurants made on the local hospitality scene . “ I remember early days at The Kitchen where you could find people drinking Napa Valley ’ s finest wines as they sat next to folks who bought ‘ the champagne of bottled beer ’ ( Miller High Life ). And everyone was treated the same .”
“ The Kitchen began , and the other Selland family restaurants continue , the Sacramento tradition of celebrating our friends , the farmers who make our food scene what it is ,” Mulvaney adds . “ Randall ’ s talent , not only as a chef but as a host , has changed the way Sacramento dines out , creating not only great experiences but also building community .”
“ The point of the place is in its name ,” Selland says . “ It ’ s like we invite you into our home for an evening . There ’ s just one seating and the menu is fixed .” But that doesn ’ t stop Selland from channeling his inner imp when called on .
“ One night , some time ago , a guy came in and I could tell right off he didn ’ t like being at the place , which he assumed was going to be stuffy , and when I started my spiel about the farm-fresh ingredients we use , he obviously didn ’ t like me .”
“ Well , I ’ m all about being a good host , so I went to his table and said , ‘ OK , what can we do to make you happy ?’ He was kind of showing off for the other guests at the table . He said , ‘ I ’ m just a guy who wants meatloaf and pizza , not all this fancy stuff .’ I said OK .” He says he went into the back and called the Selland ’ s Market Café on H Street , “ where we sell really great meatloaf and pizza , and I had them delivered to The Kitchen .”
“ While the other people at the table were being served all of this gourmet food , I put a plate of meatloaf and pizza in front of the guy . I might have even said , ‘ Bon appétit .’ The laughter from the table was worth the effort .” He pauses . “ I don ’ t think he ever came back .” Then his face lights up : “ But the other guests did .”
Ed Goldman writes a thrice-weekly column , The Goldman State , for his website goldmanstate . com .
26 comstocksmag . com | September 2022