0622_JUNE_Digital Edition | Page 36

TASTE

How Meat Markets Meet Needs

Traditional butchers find that skills from the past equal hope for the future
STORY BY Scott Thomas Anderson PHOTOS BY Debbie Cunningham

Every year barbecue fanatics dream of summer , conjuring those lingering evenings when burgers , steaks , sausage and wings sizzle over the crimson heat of glowing briquets . But real grill masters know that the season of savory smoke gets its most delicious moments with help from the area ’ s independent butcher shops .

These family-owned businesses are throwbacks to another era , offering meat from high-caliber livestock and the magic of housemade marinades . Though only a few remain in the region , these old school meat markets have found a way to flourish , even during recent supply chain meltdowns .
In the last two years , independent butchers have proven remarkably resilient and competitive . Their adaptations have led more consumers to discover their shops as they experience a renaissance .
“ We ’ re providing services and products that the customers can ’ t get ,” says David Henry , co-owner of Roseville Meat Company . “ What my wife likes to say is , if you want an inch-and-three-quarters steak , we pull out the ruler and cut it for you right there .”
Open since 1946 , Roseville Meat Company is the second-oldest operating business in Roseville .
Midcentury meat lockers
Outside of Roseville Telephone Company , Henry ’ s butcher shop is the longestoperating business in the city . It started in 1946 as a means for farmers and ranchers to store animals they were slaughtering on their homesteads . Most didn ’ t have freezers , so they needed cold storage lockers to keep meat from livestock and game good through the seasons .
The company ’ s first owner , Allen F . Newell , provided locals with chilled air
36 comstocksmag . com | June 2022