TASTE
Something for Everyone
How a 90-year-old store with a new owner is surviving a pandemic
BY Allen Pierleoni
PHOTOS BY Debbie Cunningham
Alice “ Penny ” Short took over ownership of Tess ’ Kitchen & Culinary in January 2020 , becoming its ninth owner .
Customers face a problem when they enter Tess ’ Kitchen & Culinary , one that grows more challenging as they explore the three-level , 6,000-square-foot store in Grass Valley ’ s historic district . But it ’ s a good problem to have : What to discover next ?
There are racks of preserves and vinegars , dipping oils and honeys . Elsewhere are banana slicers and ceramic graters , Fiestaware and ice buckets . In between is a display of OXO Good Grips kitchen tools , next to glass cases of knives from Germany , Switzerland and Japan . There are pots and pans , plates and glasses , and a large commercial kitchen . Upstairs are bakeware and dish towels , teapots and bread makers .
There are plenty of eccentric items , like a green frog wearing a gold crown : a hand-painted cast-iron Prince Charming bottle opener — one of many touches of whimsy owner Alice “ Penny ” Short has brought to the table since becoming owner in January 2020 , not long before the coronavirus pandemic upended the economy .
With more than 125,000 items supplied by about 400 vendors , arranged on shelves and tables , in cabinets and on ladders , the array could be overwhelming if it weren ’ t so well-organized . Still , a visit is more of an outing than a drop-in , with a vibe far more homey than at corporate giants such as Sur La Table and Williams Sonoma . “ We stock not only basics but kitchenware you didn ’ t know was out there ,” Short says . “ I add a component of humor , so you ’ ll always see a dog or cat
34 comstocksmag . com | March 2021