The New Fusion Food
Young restaurateurs in the Capital Region are rewriting the definition of authenticity
STORY BY Jennifer Fergesen PHOTOS BY Debbie Cunningham
Naseer Roshan is the co-owner of Madar , an Afghan fusion restaurant in Arden Arcade .
The “ shwaco ” was the seed of A Part of Roseville , a supper club , caterer and erstwhile cafe on Roseville ’ s Vernon Street . Co-owners and spouses Areej Khan and Michael Spencer conceived the shawarma-taco hybrid while hosting a dinner party in Brooklyn , where the couple met and lived before they moved to Antelope in 2020 . “ We just wanted to create a dish that connected our cultures and the way we both cooked ,” says Khan .
Khan was born in Saudi Arabia to parents of Indian descent ; Spencer grew up in Michigan and has Polish ancestors . The shwaco is steeped in the flavors of their memories as well as their roots . The flatbread that surrounds it — which they call a pitatilla — has as much in common with pita as it does with the fresh flour tortillas one can find in Southern California , where Khan ’ s family spent their summers . The pickles have a Slavic acerbity , tempering the scent of wood smoke that permeates the meat .
The storefront , designed by Khan , is a pink-and-purple jewel box with echoing geometric shapes and urbane wall art : “ Hello , theydies and gentlethems ,” reads one in English and Arabic , which uses plural pronouns as a sign of respect . ( A more direct translation would be “ Welcome all of you all .”) “ It ’ s food for blended people in borrowed spaces ,” Khan says . “ That ’ s the epitome of what we do here .”
The Capital Region has long been a blended place , home to one of the country ’ s most ethnically diverse populations for decades . The region ’ s young restaurateurs are increasingly opening concepts that reflect the experience of living and
30 comstocksmag . com | February 2022