11 AUTUMN 22 DESTINATION IRELAND
A little further down the coast , on the rocky headland just outside Wicklow Town , stands the ruins of Black Castle .
The turbulent history of this once not-so-humble abode is jaw-dropping . Built in 1176 , it was the subject of relentless violent attacks from local chieftains over the centuries , finally succumbing in 1645 when it was demolished .
If only what ’ s left of these walls could talk . Somewhat exhausted , our ‘ digs ’ for the night was the highly recommended Brooklodge & Macreddin Village , a luxury country house hotel nearby , which is in an eye-wateringly beautiful part of the world .
Macreddin is like an oasis in Glenmalure Valley , encompassing bars , restaurants , a spa , a bakery and smokehouse , and the divine-looking Macreddin Golf Course . My only regret was I hadn ’ t brought my clubs . Maybe next time .
Travelling further south you could spend an entire day exploring the shoreline of Brittas Bay and its surrounds . A faded holiday memory for so many of us as kids , our newfound appreciation of what Ireland has to offer is forming experiences anew as adults .
After a great night ’ s kip and a bit of a feast in the wildly popular Riverside Park Hotel on the banks of the River Slaney in historic Enniscorthy , we were off on our travels again - taking in the windswept sights of Hook Head along the way - this time to do a bit of foraging at Annestown beach with the Sea Gardner , Marie Power .
Seaweed foraging is a lost art that was commonly used by our hunter-gatherer forefathers , and Marie is the doyen when it comes to the culinary uses of it . It ’ s a pastime I was none too familiar with , as seaweed has always just been that stuff you try to avoid on your way in for a dip in my world , or occasionally get slathered in when enjoying a spa treatment in some hipster retreat .
Then there ’ s the name itself - it doesn ’ t lend itself to notions of gastronomy , does it ? Perhaps a more accurate name would be seaherb , for that ’ s exactly what it is .
Some varieties have hints of garlic , some taste sweet , others peppery and , naturally enough , quite a few are salty -
The same can be said for Curracloe Beach in Wexford - where the sprawling marram grass dunes are a magnet for local wildlife . The 11km-long stretch of sandy paradise wears its Blue Flag Award with pride , and why wouldn ’ t it ? If it ’ s good enough for Spielberg ...
And speaking of the blood-drenched history of violence at Black Castle above , it might be tame compared to the many turmoils Enniscorthy Castle has had to endure .
Now home to Wexford County Museum , the castle had a fairly benign start to life . Built in 1190 , the Norman de Predergast family enjoyed the relaxed idyll for 200 years - until all bloody hell broke lose over ownership .
Seaweed Gathering
It was claimed by Ireland , then taken by the English , burned down by the Irish , besieged by the English - a certain Mr Cromwell , to be precise - and so on before being turned into a prison in 1798 .
The tales associated with this fortified stronghold below Vinegar Hill would make your toes curl , but makes for one of the most fascinating spots to visit .
Curracloe Beach